This pattern review is an example of a fabric which inspired a project, rather than a pattern looking for a fabric! When I saw this fabric on EOS, I became obsessed with “well, how would I use that without it looking too novelty or ‘trying to hard’?” Flipping through the Vogue catalog, it dawned upon me that would work up well in something architectural which looked inspired by the images’ qualities. I selected Vogue Patterns 1312 (V1312) by Lynn Mizono. The problem? This pattern uses A LOT of yardage, and was nearly $30/yd! Also, I thought that it could be a little overwhelming to do the entire garment out of the same fabric, so I decided to play with some contrast by adding a companion fabric to the mix. It wasn’t until they arrived that I worked out how I would use each.
So, I serged the raw edges, and threw them in the washing machine (on the hottest setting) to preshrink and bring out the fabrics’ true qualities while I made decisions on the sizing and layout. It is important to pay attention to the description which states that Vogue 1312 (V1312) is “close fitting”. For starters, the finished garment measurements showed that it would work up with very little ease in the bust. If I used a knit in the bodice, I would have gone with a 12, but I’m using a structured linen. I decided to do a tissue fit with a size 14 to figure out just how much I would need to alter the shoulders to make it fit my frame. As it turns out, I needed to take out ½” out of the back pattern piece, tapering to none at the waist, and adjust the slope of the shoulder on that piece to compensate.
Before I cut the pattern out, I steamed each fabric length and decided I would use the stripes in the lower side panels. I also would need to take out about 2” total from the hem. The problem with this is that, if you take it all off of the bottom, it looks imbalanced. I took some from the middle of the skirt, too. This required some math, for every bit you take from here, you need to take the same from the sides of the lower panel (trust me, I’m an engineer, LOL)
For the interfacing, I used a preshrunk high-quality hair canvas from Fashion Sewing Supply. You should use a sew-in with linen (vice fusible) to keep the integrity of the linen’s drape and texture.
The assembly itself was very simple, and took maybe 2 hours (tops). I did make some changes to the assembly instructions for the bodice. Specifically, how to sew the lining to minimize any handstitching.
To accomplish this I do the following:
- Sew lining and fronts right-sides-together at the neckline and armholes, beginning and ending about 1″ from the shoulder edge. backstitch.
- Do the same (step 1 for the back)
- Trim & clip curves
- Turn front out and press
- Place front inside of back, and align each shoulder seam. Stitch.
- Pull the fabric through the strap about 2″. Stitch remaining armhole and neck seam. Trim.
- Pull through and press out.
- Viola! Perfectly lined bodice! Works great for vests too!
Also, as I was assembling the skirt, I basted the corners in place before serging. Unnecessary, but I am OCD …
I weighted the hem points overnight to settle the bias drape in, and it turned out fantastic! I’m working on a complementary architectural jacket in a black linen to go with it! More on that soon!
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